First, let me thank you for putting up the best advice I’ve ever
seen on how to drill a shallow well !!! Just found your site
last night and read through all the postings.
developed my own shallow well drilling technique over the past
30 years. Currently, I have done 15 systems for my neighbors as
a hobby. They supply the parts and I donate my time. These
systems are in the North Tampa, Fl area. I get some very nice
pies at Christmas……
standard wells systems are 3 wells with 48 inch sand points (I
use a cross fitting to hook up left , center, right sections (10
to 15 feet lengths) to a 1 hp HNE Sta –Rite pump with 2 gal
pressure tanks. These wells are drilled (jetted down) with your
type two garden hose set up. Didn’t think about a weep hole
though! A 2 inch casting 25 feet down, then I use the 1.25 Sand
points inside just as you suggested.
My 2 inch pipe is 3
sections. First is 10 feet with a Male treaded fitting on top. I
jet that down first. Then I put down a 15 foot drilling pipe
with a male threaded top fitting. Last I connect the 15 foot to
an 10 foot extension Male/Female threaded fittings. My top drill
head is just like your example except it is attached to a female
threaded coupling. It is important to use a lot of 2+ 2 pipe
lube on the M/F threads to be able to attach and take them apart
without much problem.
about 20 - 22 GPM out of this type system. The water level
averages 8 feet where I live. The points last about 15 years
before they get clogged up and the operating psi is down to ½ of
original psi per sprinkler zone. I then back flush the system
for 30 minutes and add two more wells to the original 3. Good to
go for another 15 years.
internal couplings for the 1.25 sand point pipe and 1.5 inch
bronze check valves (with 1.25 reducers) for better flow on the
never tried the pea gravel idea……..will on my next well upgrade
to 5 points.
thanks for your excellent work showing others how to get that
“almost FREE” H2O.
system has a VU-Flow 1.5 inch 250 mesh filter to catch the sugar
sand. The black bag it to prevent algae from growing on the
filter! The plastic check valve is on an older system!
I asked Bill why he used
the screw on connectors for his 2.00 inch drill pipe. I
have always used the glue on or "solvent weld" connectors for
their strength. Bill explained that he mostly
drills/washes using an up and down motion so the the screw on
connectors do not come loose. Bill uses the same
drill pipe over and over.
Yes, that is the reason
for using it…….easy on, easy off………..no pipe wrenches needed! I
have used the same (3) 2 inch pipes to drill over 20 holes……
I make three changes to
my drill pipe. The first is a 10 foot section with a serrated
foot ……..no coupling on the end.
The next is a 17 foot
section with a serrated foot, again no end coupling . Then I
screw a 8 foot section to the 17 foot section in the ground. I
now have a 25 foot well hole. I unscrew the drill head and drop
the 25 foot 1.25 suction pipe (4 or 5 foot sand point) down the
2 inch driller. Pull the driller and you have your well.
Note: I just remembered why I use internal fittings on the
1.25………………normal outside fitting will not go past the
Male/female 2 inch treaded connectors.
Today, I just put in an extra well point on my 10 year old 3
point system . It took 20 minutes from water on to water off to
drill and place my 1.25 suction pipe in my well. The opened ¾
inch hose bib pressure went from 30 to 50 psi.
Ready to start