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ANOTHER HOME DRILLER! I received a very interesting email from Bill in North Tampa, Florida. Bill has been drilling wells himself for some time and has refined his technique. He puts in three 1.25 inch wells per pump. He drills with 2.00 inch PVC and he reuses his drill pipe. Best of all, Bill has agreed to let me post his technique so others can benefit from his experience. Thanks Bill!
Mike,
First, let me thank you for putting up
the best advice I’ve ever seen on how to drill a shallow well !!!
Just found your site last night and read through all the postings.
I too, developed my own shallow well
drilling technique over the past 30 years. Currently, I have done 15
systems for my neighbors as a hobby. They supply the parts and I
donate my time. These systems are in the North Tampa, Fl area. I get
some very nice pies at Christmas……
My standard wells systems are 3 wells
with 48 inch sand points (I use a cross fitting to hook up left ,
center, right sections (10 to 15 feet lengths) to a 1 hp HNE Sta
–Rite pump with 2 gal pressure tanks. These wells are drilled
(jetted down) with your type two garden hose set up. Didn’t think
about a weep hole though! A 2 inch casting 25 feet down, then I use
the 1.25 Sand points inside just as you suggested.
My 2 inch pipe is 3 sections. First is 10 feet with a Male
treaded fitting on top. I jet that down first. Then I put down a
15 foot drilling pipe with a male threaded top fitting. Last I
connect the 15 foot to an 10 foot extension Male/Female threaded
fittings. My top drill head is just like your example except it
is attached to a female threaded coupling. It is important to
use a lot of 2+ 2 pipe lube on the M/F threads to be able to
attach and take them apart without much problem.
I get about 20 - 22 GPM out of this type
system. The water level averages 8 feet where I live. The points
last about 15 years before they get clogged up and the operating psi
is down to ½ of original psi per sprinkler zone. I then back flush
the system for 30 minutes and add two more wells to the original 3.
Good to go for another 15 years.
I
use internal couplings for the 1.25 sand point pipe
and 1.5 inch bronze check valves (with 1.25 reducers)
for better flow on the suction side.
I’ve never tried the pea gravel
idea……..will on my next well upgrade to 5 points.
Again, thanks for your excellent work
showing others how to get that “almost FREE” H2O.
I wish you well,
Bill
- Tampa, Fl
PS
This system has a VU-Flow 1.5 inch 250 mesh filter to catch the
sugar sand. The black bag it to prevent algae from growing on the
filter! The plastic check valve is on an older system!
I asked
Bill why he used the screw on connectors for his 2.00 inch drill
pipe. I have always used the glue on or "solvent weld"
connectors for their strength.
I asked if he re-used the same drill pipe over and over.
Bill explained that he mostly drills/washes using an up and down
motion so the the screw on connectors do not come loose.
Mike,
Yes, that is the reason for using it…….easy on, easy off………..no
pipe wrenches needed! I have used the same (3) 2 inch pipes to
drill over 20 holes……
I make three changes to my drill pipe.
The first is a 10 foot section with a serrated foot ……..no coupling
on the end.
The next is a 17 foot section with a
serrated foot, again no end coupling . Then I screw a 8 foot section
to the 17 foot section in the ground. I now have a 25 foot well
hole. I unscrew the drill head and drop the 25 foot 1.25 suction
pipe (4 or 5 foot sand point) down the 2 inch driller. Pull the
driller and you have your well.
Note: I just remembered why I use
internal fittings on the 1.25………………normal outside fitting will not
go past the Male/female 2 inch treaded connectors.
Bill: "My Koi fish
have been enjoying their No Chlorine |
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